Posted: Friday, November 20, 2009 - 2 comment(s) [ Comment ] - 0 trackback(s) [ Trackback ]
 One of the bigger leaks for less sophisticated players is bet sizing.  I speak from some experience.
Correctly sized bets will maximize your wins and minimize your losses.  Additionally, you will put opponents in situations where they are getting the wrong odds to play back at you.
 
Any bet you make should always relate to the current size of the pot. First question then, how much is in the pot?  Remember, your bet determines your opponents' pot odds.  Every time your opponent calls with incorrect odds, you have an edge.  Therefore, make correctly sized bets to ensure your opponents can make these mistakes.
 
If you believe you have a hand superior to your opponent, bet 70% to full pot.  This size bet will prevent the opposition from correctly calling,  if they are on a draw.   They will, however, now have the wrong odds to continue with the hand.  A bet that size will winnow weaker hands from the field. As you might well imagine, you will reduce the chances of your hand getting outdrawn when the next card comes.
 
At lower limits, there are few instances where you want to make a bet less than half the size of the pot. Weaker bets will usually cost you value and giving your opponents to correct odds to call and perhaps outdraw you.
 
Often, you will see a player make a smaller bet.  Either he is making an error or he is being tricky. The point being, the smaller bet provides information.  A standard-sized bet carries little information. 
 
A properly-sized bet puts your opponents to a tough decision.  Their calls should offer info regarding hand strength. For opponents to call, they must feel they have a decent holding or strong drawing hand. (Of course, they could be idiots or floating you to take the hand on a later street.) Therefore, we can use this information to influence our decision on the next betting round.
 
If we have a decent hand but it is one that is easily beat, we may consider slowing down our betting on future rounds as our opponent may have us beat as they called our strong bet on an earlier round. However, if we feel we still have the best hand then we should continue our strong betting, to try and extract as much money as possible from our opponents by taking advantage of our pot equity.
 
The biggest mistake for beginners is making minimum bets (donkbets) and raises. If make a minimum raise before the flop, a number of players will call you, as they are now getting the proper odds to see the flop with any two cards.
 
As a general rule, beginners should avoid minimum bets and raises. Either make a strong bet or don't bet at all.  As we used to say in the playgrounds of my youth, go big or go home.  Also, a donkbet elicits little info about your opponent's hand. 
 
As a general rule of thumb, if you raise pre-flop, make your bet 3x  the size othe big blind. Never vary that amount.  (If you are at the lowest stakes, you might have to make this bet 4x or 5x, as the amount must be large enough to dissuade chasers.)
If there are limpers before you, bet 3xBB +1BB for each limper.  again, you are betting in part to put your opponents to a tough decision with incorrect odds.
 
If you are raising an opponent’s bet, raise them 3 times the size of their original bet; again to offer incorrect odds for a call.
 
When you decide to make a bet or a raise, look at the size of the pot before deciding on the size of your play.  Look at the size of the stacks of all players remaining in the hand.  Look at the size of your own stack.  If any bet is going to be more than 40% of your stack, just shove. 
 
The goal of bet sizing is a simple one.  Or two.  You want to reduce the odds your opponents are getting.  You want to maximize your winnings.
 
Bottom line:  A shove is often the wrong size bet.   Don't ever be afraid to bet correctly.
Posted: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 - 4 comment(s) [ Comment ] - 0 trackback(s) [ Trackback ]
 I came across what follows as I cleansed my computer.  The material originates with a Full Tilt Poker pro, whose name did not get recorded.  The info comes from late 2006, but I am guessing the advice remains applicable at most of the levels we currently play.  Content has been, of course, artfully re-written for clarity.

    Re-buy tournaments require an entire stylistic shift that seems to make a lot of players uncomfortable. Generally, the players who get the most perplexed or bothered by the re-buy structure are the ones who don't come prepared to take a few thin gambles during the re-buy period, or who maintain the delusion that buying in for just one or two buy-ins is the best strategy.
    While it may be possible to execute a limited buy-in strategy with some success, and buying in for as little as possible will certainly maximize your ROI, no doubt the biggest long term winners in re-buy tournaments are the ones who employ an aggressive (tight or loose) style during the re-buy period and are willing to double re-buy as many times as they bust.              
    Everyone knows that NL tournaments favor aggression, and the re-buy period amplifies the advantage aggressive players enjoy. 
     The re-buy period is good for establishing a loose-aggressive or fearless image, but the advantages carry over past the first hour. After the dust settles on the rebuy period and players can't buy any more chips, the table dynamics are much better defined: there are short and big stacks, the rocks and the maniacs have been identified, and there are players on tilt, muttering about how much they hate rebuys. You will usually have a sharper sense of how your opponents view you, too. With more information and familiarity, you are able to make better decisions.
    The flip side to this situation is the blackhole of the rebuy period, also known as Rebuy Tilt. There are different causes of this, but in every case you will take too many close gambles, calling off your chips with junk hands hoping to suckout, or making big plays without realizing your opponents have adjusted and probably have the best of it. Top pros have thrown away plenty of great stacks (in addition to cold-hard cash) while caught up in Rebuy Tilt.  Often, an average buyin (somewhere around 5-6x in the $100 rebuy on Stars and probably much higher in the lower limits) is probably a little bit higher than it needs to be. Although there are some great players, live and online, who have gone off on severe Rebuy Tilt and still show a positive expectation, it's really nothing more than a leak.
    That being said, you have to be prepared to take the risks and fire the bullets that ultimately win tournaments.
    Remember the importance of keeping your focus when times are tough in a tournament. Maintaining clarity after tough breaks is a crucial trait for any poker game. But when things are going badly in the re-buy period, it's important to remember the tournament is still just beginning. No matter how much you are over-invested or how few chips you have, re-buys were your salvation and you're still in better shape than the people who weren't willing to spend more than one buy-in and are now on their way home.
    In any non-satellite MTT, the money is heavily weighted in the top three spots. Given this information, your goal - always - should be to finish in the top three of each tourney you play. In a re-buy tournament, it's common to lose 25% of the field by the end of the re-buy period. This mass attrition rate can be viewed as being similar to a freezeout where 25% of the field did not show, but were still kind of enough to subsidize the prize pool.
    From a numbers perspective, the significant decrease in field size greatly enhances your chances of placing top three or winning the event. From a value perspective, the subsidized payouts coupled with the decreased field size give you a greater percentage of equity in the prize pool.
    In terms of play, good players can gain significant advantages in re-buy tournaments, advantages that are not available in freezeouts.
    Firstly, no matter how short you are after the re-buy period, the blinds relatively small.  Usually, you will  have enough chips where your M is not in jeopardy of falling into the red zone. This basically creates a deep stack tourney that allows you to be selective and pick your spots, whereas in a freezeout with a normal structure, failing to win any significant pots in the first hour usually means forcing a push in the second hour.
   Secondly, many players simply have difficulty switching gears to a normal tournament setting once the re-buy period has concluded. This creates many loose calls and ill-advised raises that are exploitable by good players.
    Thirdly, re-buy tourneys create vastly disproportionate stack sizes at the tables. Many times, this phenomena results in two different situations that can be preyed upon by good players: Stack Ego and Stack Envy
    Stack Ego occurs when a player accumulates a huge amount of chips during the re-buy period and feels duty-bound to bully the table and keep his name atop the leaderboard without dropping in position. This flawed sense of duty and expectation, coupled with the fact many of these individuals do not normally play big stack poker, make them prime candidates for you to double through.
    Stack Envy occurs when the smaller stacks tend to place excessive emphasis on the sizes of the other stacks at the table. Many times these smaller stacks will prematurely push/call pre-flop or fail to find the fold button post-flop, due to the fact they feel the need to "catch up." These tendencies make chip accumulation much easier for a good player.
 
    Re-buys are oddly enough excellent opportunities for TAGs, who are often so limited by the typical starting stack online of 1500 chips.  Suffer a bad beat, shrug it off and re-buy. 
    Set a limit - before the tournament - of how many re-buys you are willing to invest.  More than one or two, probably less than a dozen.